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#Copper tube bending how to#
#Copper tube bending full size#
#Copper tube bending full#
#Copper tube bending plus#

Our offset is 5” (use the correct number for your machine from the table in the 101 section) for a 2015 to current machine for a 4.5” CLR die, so hang 0.5” of tube out of the end of the clamp block and bend 90 degrees. We want a 10 inch leg with a 4.5” bend, so we need 5.5” of straight tube (5.5″ tube, 4.5″ in the bend since it’s a 4.5 CLR die). We’re going to bend from one end to the other, starting with the 90 degree bend (following the same layout from the 201 section). The following paragraph is a VERY DENSE explanation of another way to bend the same shape drawn above in Bending 103. Starting From One End of the Tube, Not the Middle This may be okay if you want to keep things simple and don’t mind a little waste. Doing that would result in you having a longer cut length.

#Copper tube bending full#

If you cut your tube to the full “sharp corner” length, You will have to cut the ends after you are done. Repeat this process until you are done bending your layout. If your second clamp block location doesn’t seem to be as close to the bend as you drew it, you may draw it closer and maintain as much accuracy as possible.ġ0. Now is the time to account for any stretching that may take place. Remove the tube and lay it on top of your layout. Make your bend per machine instructions.ĩ. Load into the bender (from front) until the clamp block line is on the front face of the clamp block.Ĩ. Measure out from center and draw your clamp block lines on the tube (7.75” and 10.75” in the example above).ħ. bend length which can be easily calculated using the numbers given in the 102 section above.Ħ.

#Copper tube bending plus#

The length is simply all the straight lengths from the layout added up, plus the “take up” A.K.A. Now cut your tube to length, and put a mark in the very center of your tube. The process is good, but the numbers are not longer correct for just the bend offsets. NOTE – This layout is shown with some outdated bend offsets. What you will now have is the locations where you clamp the material in the machine to put the bends where they are in the layout.

Move from the center of your layout to the right, draw a line 5” from the beginning of every bend (5″ is one of the bend offsets from the table in the 101 section, use the offset that matches your die and machine).

This is where we will start fabricating from.

Put a mark on your layout in the center of the tube.

Mark the beginning and end (optional) of the bends.

Trace the bends accurately into the corners with the correct radius.

#Copper tube bending full size#

Draw your layout full size with sharp corners and dimension it (you can draw it on concrete, cardboard, paper, etc).

Non-Symmetrical Parts – A Little More Complex We have examples in bending 301 and also in bending 302. The M600 is the only tubing bender in the world that we know of that is capable of doing this without tremendously expensive custom clamping dies being manufactured.įor an application example of zero spacing bends, read on. Doing this allows for true zero spacing bends – meaning there is no measurable length of tubing between two bends. This is when our bend gauge becomes very useful (link HERE – opens in new window/tab). Please note that once you clamp on a bend or flip the clamp block (or both), your bend offset will not match what is published. You can use any pressure die pin location to engage the clamp block. This may require you to flip your clamp block (bolts on the block will now face down). Larger bend radii require more spacing here.

As the image shows, you can put bends VERY close if you have a roller pressure die in the machine (the little wheel below the tube).

It does allow any rotation between bends very easily though. This method is simple, and doesn’t allow bends to be very close. That is the dimension to the left in the above image.

As explained in bending 101, you can always make a bend, put the clamp block after that bend, and have the bends spaced as close together as your bend offset allows.

If you can’t see your centerline mark, it’s loaded into the machine the correct way. When you load the material in the machine, line up the last line you drew with the face of the clamp block closest to you, and make your bend. Now we just add the bend offset (5 7/8″ in the table from bending 101), and put a line 5 7/8″ from one of the lines that you drew to mark the end of the bend. So draw 2 more lines, each 3.12″ from the centerline. Lets say you have a tube that is 45 inches long, and you want a 60 degree bend (done on a 1.75×6 CLR die) right in the middle of it.

#Copper tube bending how to#

Now that you know how to calculate the length of a bend, and where a bend will start based on where you clamp it in the machine, you can easily put a bend in the middle of a piece of tubing.